Ciao: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (or Exploring Florence’s Iconic and Most Substantial Steak)
Bistecca alla Fiorentina, Trattoria 4 Leoni, Florence
Still reflecting on the whirlwind of the end of season, but so far fall has been fairly grounding. I am feeling anchored enough to pick up the pen again and today’s entry is a sentimental nod to summer and our annual visit to Florence. Always on our short list of first stops when we arrive in Italy, it is one of my favorite places in the world. I take whatever time our schedules allow to touch this cultural mecca. Sometimes we can only afford to give this intimate, art-filled city a fleeting kiss, with a quick pass through on our way to another region and sometimes, when fortune allows, we are able to bask in her soft beauty for days. No matter the circumstance, we always make a stop at our favorite restaurant just on the edge of the city center, 4 Leoni. And in most instances, no matter how hot or how hungry we may or not be, we order their massive Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Because this is a banger of a steak experience. Because of its sheer scale and specificity. Because of its cook, texture, flavor. It’s everything you love about steak on steroids.
A little backstory on this iconic dish: The Bistecca alla Fiorentina is legendary, with roots that trace back to the ancient heart of Tuscany and carry a name that marks a 13th century Renaissance run in with some Brits who called out for more of what they coined “beef-steaks”. Before this, Italians, always succinct and straightforward, simply called this dish carni ai ferri- “meat of the iron”- a nod to its presentation on a grill over an open flame. Always sourced solely from Chianina cattle, one of the oldest and largest breeds in the world, bistecca offers a distinct and novel experience tied up in its grand scale and tender flavor. As with most traditional Italian cooking seeking to preserve and celebrate natural flavors, the steak’s preparation is refreshingly straightforward and shining a light on the quality of the meat itself- not on a chef, or on a sauce or a style of cooking. These particular beauties are seasoned with just salt, pepper, and a touch of olive oil and simply grilled to perfection over high heat, resulting in a deliciously charred exterior while keeping the inside juicy and rare. Sometimes a sprig of rosemary is tossed on the finished product for good measure. But that’s as far as any embellishment will ever go.
If you want to try to make this dish at home (which we rarely do because it requires a reverence of product and process that makes just whipping something like this up on a weeknight unfeasible) do it the right way. Just slapping a recipe up here will not do it justice but if you are going to take a stab at it, here are some caveats: Find the right cut, thick, at least three fingers high, and bone-in, typically from the loin. Go for grass-fed, local and high quality. Skimping here will result in a sub-par experience. Keep seasoning to a minimum. Let the meat shine. Grill it. An open flame is good, a charcoal grill even better if you want to add a little smokiness to the flavor of the meat. Hit it with heat briefly on each side, then let it rest. You are after succulence, a kind of tension between texture and flavor, that makes this steak experience one of the best in the world.
Have you tried Bistecca Fiorentina? What are your thoughts on this iconic dish? I’ll be sure to follow up here if we try our hand at it anytime soon. But in the meantime, share your experiences and recipes in the comments below.
