The Porcini We Never Found (Or, How You Find Them Anyway, Years Later, at Your Own Table)
My husband and I spent a whole day hunting porcini in the Italian Alps. And came home with nothing. Even the children filled their baskets. The dinner that followed still shapes our autumn table on Maui, and every October we bring pappardelle ai porcini back to Sale Pepe.
Too Special (Or, What You Do When Someone You Love Keeps His Best Work To Himself)
My husband thinks that some things are too special for restaurant service. I think that is exactly why people should get to eat them. On Monday, the argument started again. This time over two trays of focaccia.
This Is How You Arrive in Florence
You have just left your brother-in-law behind in Milan, not knowing how many more days he has to live. What you do know is that your daughter's summer cannot be defined by grief. And that someone in the car needs to hold steady. This is how you arrive in Florence anyway, yellow flowers giving way to rooftops, dread giving way to the city’s gold light, one long night before you understand what tomorrow will bring.
Veramente. The Real Deal.
I have been chasing risotto Milanese for twenty years. Then Veramente finally got it right.
The Duomo, Always
First you see the spires. Just a sliver of them, poking above the rooftops as you turn a corner, silver against the sky.
The Italian Breakfast Is Not What You Think
Everyone does it, the same way, every day, all over Italy. Here is how to do it right.
The South Found Us First
A Napoletano restaurant on a wet Milanese street. Four tables, off-menu antipasti, and a reminder that your first meal in a new place sets the tone.
Ciao: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (or Exploring Florence’s Iconic and Most Substantial Steak)
...we always make a stop at our favorite restaurant just on the edge of the city center, 4 Leoni. And in most instances, no matter how hot or how hungry we may or not be, we order their massive Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Because this is a banger of a steak experience. Because of its sheer scale and specificity. Because of its cook, texture, flavor. It’s everything you love about steak on steroids.
Ciao: An Introduction (Part 1)
Ciao. I use this greeting here because I assume that you are a friend. Or soon-to-be friend. Or maybe, at minimum, mildly curious about what Ciao. Yo. Aloha is and why I am bothering to write this blog at all. Lean in. Make yourself comfortable. I’ll explain.